Time to say ‘halo/hello’ to our closest neighbour in the Pacific

I’ve lived in Australia all my life and I’ve travelled extensively but I’d never visited our closest neighbour, Papua New Guinea (PNG).

I decided that it was time to pay a visit, cruising from Brisbane on P&O’s Pacific Encounter.

I expected an overseas holiday without the long-haul flight and the  jet lag.

I expected tropical weather and a floating resort.

I did not expect to be moved. But moved I was.

I was moved by the children, the subsistence living and the poverty, the military history and the loss of life, as well as the natural beauty – so many experiences, rolled into four port days.

PNG is the second-largest country (after Australia) in the South Pacific.

The first port of this cruise was the town of Alotau.

I was shocked at the poverty, shocked to learn that the vast majority of people are subsistence farmers and shocked that most people in PNG have no access to electricity.

I was also shocked at the  widespread chewing of Betel nuts by children through to elderly people.  This stimulant rots teeth. It also dyes lips, mouths and teeth red.

The next port was the gorgeous Kiriwina Island. The beach – golden sand and turquoise water – is stunning.

Locals offer rides in dug-out canoes for a bargain price of $5. I wished I had some local currency (kina) with  me, but the locals did accept Australian currency in cash. There were no credit  card facilities.

I was taken around Kaibola village by a local, Benson. Another culture shock. There is no electricity nor running water. Water is collected from a nearby spring.

Pigs and chickens roam freely. Coconuts and taro are plentiful,  staple foods.

Kiriwina is a tender port and P&O offers no tours.

If you’re older or not very  mobile, the best bet is probably to  stay on the ship as there are no tourist facilities. Also, the queue for the tender back to the ship was hot and long with no seating.

The next port was Rabaul. I chose to do a World War II tour there. I was glad that I hadn’t chosen to spend my time in Rabaul as it is just an industrial port. It also felt somewhat unsafe so I was glad to be part of a tour.

The natural scenery of the dark blue, glassy Coral Sea set against the backdrop of the dark green, lush, rugged mountains was breathtaking.

We stopped at a Japanese barge tunnel. Barges were towed out to sea from there and then back into the tunnel to hide them from the Allies. Dug out by the prisoners of war, hundreds of tunnels are found in the area.

We also stopped at the beautifully maintained Bita Paka War Cemetery. This cemetery mainly comprises graves of those lost during WWII. The rows of headstones were shudderingly awful to see and the number of unknown soldiers’ remains was very sad.

P&O’s Pacific Encounter

The final port was the exquisite Conflict Islands: ‘Paradise in the  Coral Sea’.

Conflict Islands was day-tripper heaven and conveniently cashless. The colours of the Coral Sea defied belief: so clear and green and yet so blue.

Combined with fine, white sand and lush, tropical vegetation, I felt like I was on a movie set.

I meandered along the sand spit and lolled in the warm, aquamarine water.

Later in the day, I boarded the  Undersea Explorer and cruised  around a few of the 21 islands that  make up the group. Bliss!

Back on the Pacific Encounter for the two sea days to Brisbane, I reflected on the culture shock I had experienced, the history lessons I had learned and the stunning natural beauty I had seen.

PNG is on Australia’s doorstep but it seems a world away.

Four port days in a 10-day voyage left plenty of time to relax and enjoy  the ship.

At 2900 passengers and 1100  crew, the Pacific Encounter was the biggest cruise ship I had sailed on in a few years.

I had forgotten the advantage of a big ship: multiple eating areas, bars and lounges, various pools (including an adults-only version), three kids’ clubs, an adventure activities area called P&O Edge, a gym, spa … the list of facilities appears endless.

There are organised activities all day long, with indoor seating areas and outdoor sun lounges everywhere.

One of the top perks of a cruise for me is the choice to do as much or as little as I want. If you want to participate in a group activity, there are plenty to choose from. If you want to curl up in a comfy chair and read or people watch, there are cosy spots galore.

The entertainment options on a big ship are many and varied, too. There seemed to be live music in multiple spots on the ship all day. And the shows in the theatre were first class.

Experiencing PNG via the P&O cruise ship was a wonderful combination of comfort and security alongside culture, history and  natural beauty.

* The writer travelled courtesy of Citro and with the assistance of P&O Cruises. The voyage was called ‘New Guinea Island Encounter’. In early 2025, P&O’s Pacific Adventure and Pacific Encounter integrated into the Carnival fleet, becoming Carnival Adventure and Carnival Encounter. While sailing under new names, both ships will continue to offer the same great holiday experience. Voyages from now until 2026 are available to book via pocruises.com.au