Ride a wave of Hawaiian nostalgia

From up here, the feeling of Honolulu is one of pure nostalgia. I’m standing on an ocean-view balcony at one of Hawaii’s most iconic high-rise hotels – and I can almost hear the strains of the Hawaii Five-0 theme song swirling around me.

Remember that music? As the helicopter pans around, actor Jack Lord stands gazing out on his domain: the beaches, palm trees and skyline of Honolulu expanding before him. And yes, he was standing on a penthouse balcony just above where I am, in this very hotel.

Opened in 1964, when the Waikiki streetscape looked a little different, the Ilikai Hotel & Luxury Suites is an icon, inextricably linked to the hit TV show that ran for 12 seasons from 1966 to 1980. Today, it overlooks the bustling Ala Wai boat harbour, a 15-minute walk from downtown Waikiki’s dining and shopping precinct.

I may not be in the penthouse, but my room is apartment-sized. The Ilikai was conceived as a condominium project but opened as a hotel that was soon welcoming not only the cast of Hawaii Five-0 but also celebrities including Elvis Presley, Tom Jones, Jack Benny, Engelbert Humperdinck and the crew of Apollo 13. Elements of the hotel, including the glass lift and rooftop restaurant, were drawcards at a time when such things were not common.

It’s my third visit to Hawaii, but my first as a solo traveller, stopping over in Honolulu for a few days on my way to mainland USA.

As I’ve already ticked off Oahu’s major attractions – Pearl Harbour, Diamond Head and, yes, the shopping – I’m keen to dig a bit deeper into the culture.

My first stop is Iolani Palace, the only royal palace in the US, once home to Hawaii’s king and queen. It’s a revelation: a reminder that Hawaii was once a monarchy.

This grand symbol of Hawaiian sovereignty was completed in 1882 but, only a decade later, the kingdom was overthrown and entered a period as a republic. Built in the ‘American Florentine’ style by King Kalakaua, Hawaii’s last king, it sits on sacred land and was home to King Kalakaua and Queen Kapi’olani.

Entry is by guided tour and is well worth doing for an insight into the lavish lifestyle – always with an eye to Hawaiian culture – that the royal family enjoyed.

There are many surprises, too, including the room in which the feisty Queen Lili’uokalani was imprisoned after she was overthrown in 1893.

Across the street from the palace, my eye is caught by a striking bronze and gold statue outside an equally impressive building and I go for a closer look. The statue is of King Kamehameha I, who united the Hawaiian Islands and established the monarchy, ruling from 1795-1819. A friendly passer-by tells me that I’m standing outside the Supreme Court – and that it’s worth going inside.

After passing through a security point – “guns not allowed” – I explore the ground-floor Judiciary History Centre: a small museum devoted to Hawaiian law and the transition to Western law that the 50th state now follows. Upstairs, under an elegant domed atrium ceiling, the courtrooms are empty today.

My appetite for learning more about Hawaii’s history now piqued, my next stop is the Bishop Museum, a 30-minute bus ride from Waikiki.

The museum was established in 1889, named for Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop: a member of the Hawaiian royal family who left her estate to be used to establish schools for native Hawaiian children.

Operating as a natural and cultural history museum, it has the world’s largest collection of Polynesian cultural artifacts and is a treasure trove of Hawaiian culture and royal heirlooms.

While dining alone is one of the most dreaded aspects of solo travel – especially for women – Honolulu has plenty of welcoming, comfortable options.

Book a table by the window at Monkeypod Kitchen at Outrigger Reef Hotel for views of Diamond Head and a sweep of palm-fringed beach while you dine on Hawaiian-influenced cuisine with an emphasis on locally sourced produce.

I also found a terrific little restaurant on Ala Moana Boulevard, near my hotel. Goofy Café & Dine is a licenced ‘surfer’s café’, upstairs in a classic old wooden shop building, serving dishes created with local organic produce. My Genovase spaghetti with homemade herb pesto, macadamia nuts and shrimp was delicious. On my last night in Honolulu, I splurged on dinner at the Ilikai’s signature Empire Steak House restaurant on the 30th floor, where the prices are as heart-stopping as the views. For the budget-minded, head up there for a cocktail and something from the bar menu.

For entertainment, I couldn’t go past the new Cirque du Soleil resident show ‘Auana (above) at the Outrigger Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel. It’s a thrilling show of acrobatics, hula and music, honouring the deep connection to the land and the people of these islands. ‘Auana is inspired by the stories of Hawaii, from the Polynesian migration, to the golden age of tourism.

There’s even a nod to Hawaii Five-0 that has the theme tune stuck in my head again.

FACT BOX

Getting there: Hawaiian Airlines flies direct to Honolulu from Sydney five times a week, departing at 9.40pm and arriving at 11.40am. Since combining in September 2024, Hawaiian Airlines and Alaska Airlines now offer more than 200 daily flights for non-stop access between the islands and great connections to the US mainland. hawaiianairlines.com

Where to stay: Ilikai Hotel & Luxury Suites has rates starting at US$300 per night. aquaaston.com/hotels/ilikai-hotel-luxury-suites

What to do: Go City Pass has discounted entry to 40 attractions on Oahu. gocity.com

Cirque du Soleil’s ‘Auana at Outrigger Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel has two shows nightly. cirquedusoleil.com/auana